School Girl Aesthetic: Powerful or Problematic?

Often depicted in media as a symbol of innocence, rebellion, or transformation, the schoolgirl aesthetic has been a defining feature of both fashion and media in the West for decades. The look, from collared shirts and overwhelming amounts of plaid patterns, has evolved over the decades and has produced different cultural impacts, whether it be shaping pop culture or influencing real-world fashion trends. While it has been criticized for its problematic undertones, it has also been reclaimed as a source of empowerment primarily for women. From film to music videos, the aesthetic has been reinterpreted in various ways over the years, reflecting shifting social values around fashion, identity, and power.

What is the Schoolgirl Aesthetic?

The schoolgirl aesthetic is rooted in traditional school uniforms in the West, particularly those found in private schools in the United States and the United Kingdom. Typically consisting of plaid skirts, button-up shirts, blazers, and loafers, this style is often associated with an air of innocence, privilege, and discipline as perceived about private schools and other types of exclusive academic institutions. However, while inspired by real-world uniforms, media portrayals and pop culture tend to exaggerate elements for stylistic appeal: shorter skirts, fitted tops, and more playful accessories. This transformation characterizes the traditional uniform into something more provocative or rebellious. Depending on how it is presented, the schoolgirl aesthetic can either reinforce societal expectations about its wearers—adolescent girls—or challenge them, depending on how it is styled and contextualized in different narratives.

Evolution in Media

The dramatic shift in the portrayal of the schoolgirl aesthetic in media can be seen in iconic films that used the aesthetic to define characters undergoing personal growth or social reinvention. Initially associated with youthful innocence, the aesthetic gradually became more fashion-forward and, at times, provocative. Ally Sheedy’s character Allison Reynolds in The Breakfast Club (1985) experiences a makeover that turns her from an outcast characterized by her dark clothing and neutrally gendered accessories into someone more conventionally attractive—partly through the adoption of a more feminine color palette and polished version of the schoolgirl aesthetic. Similarly, Clueless (1995) and Legally Blonde (2001) played with schoolgirl-inspired fashion to emphasize preppier styles as aspirational for adolescent women. Other films like The Princess Diaries (2001), Mean Girls (2004), and Easy A (2010) used the aesthetic to showcase transformation narratives, where characters either embrace or reject the schoolgirl look as they develop their identities. More recently, To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before (2018) reintroduced the aesthetic in a way that aligns with modern preppy fashion trends—cardigans, bolder sweater prints, and the inclusion of pants—making it more approachable and contemporary.

Beyond film, the schoolgirl aesthetic has been a staple in music videos, particularly in the work of female pop stars. Britney Spears’ ...Baby One More Time (1999) famously cemented the look in pop culture, using a playful yet controversial take on the uniform to portray youthful confidence. Years later, Iggy Azalea’s Fancy (2014) paid homage to Clueless, further solidifying the enduring appeal of the schoolgirl aesthetic.

Problematic?

Despite its popularity, the schoolgirl aesthetic has been criticized for being infantilizing and reinforcing outdated gender dynamics. By emphasizing youth and innocence, especially given that its wearers both in media and in real life tend to be adolescent girls, it can contribute to the fetishization of young women, particularly when stylized in a way that sexualizes the uniform. The dynamic raises concerns about how the media portrays adolescent femininity and the messages it sends about power and desirability. Additionally, the aesthetic is often associated with class privilege. The polished, private-school-inspired look is frequently linked to wealth and exclusivity, and making it an aspirational style may not reflect the reality of most students. The glamorization of the schoolgirl aesthetic in media often overlooks the rigid structures and social hierarchies that exist in real-life academic institutions.

The Case for Reclamation

While the schoolgirl aesthetic has its problematic elements rooted in its subservient portrayal of young women, it has also been reclaimed in ways that challenge traditional narratives. The incorporation of pop-punk elements in fashion, such as plaid skirts paired with combat boots and band tees, has added a rebellious edge to the look, subverting its associations with innocence. This reinterpretation allows women to take control of the aesthetic, using it as a tool for self-expression rather than adhering to societal expectations. The aesthetic can provide dimension to female characters in media, giving them space to be more than just their youthful appearance. When used thoughtfully, it can highlight the complexity of young women’s experiences—balancing societal pressures with personal agency and growth. Rather than being a passive symbol of conformity, the schoolgirl aesthetic can be wielded as a statement of individuality and defiance despite patriarchal standards and restrictions for female expression.

Conclusion

As fashion trends continue to evolve, the schoolgirl aesthetic will likely undergo further transformations as gendered expression in fashion and media continues to see broader horizons and possibilities. With shifting cultural conversations around gender, power, and representation, the way this aesthetic is portrayed in media will be crucial in determining whether it remains problematic or becomes an empowering symbol. Trends like gender-neutral school uniforms and alternative takes on preppy fashion suggest that the aesthetic may continue to be redefined in unexpected ways. Whether it’s seen as a symbol of innocence, rebellion, or empowerment, the schoolgirl aesthetic remains a powerful tool for storytelling and self-expression.

Written by Arushi Sen

Directed by K Pereira @kaleb.pereira922

Photography by Roberto Meadows @_.rubbertoe & Garrett Hoy @ghoy2000

Styled by KateLynn Herrera @katelynn.herrera

PA: Tayja Whyte @tayjaa.x, Chloe Kaleah Stewart @chloe.kaleah

Talent: Sammie Butters @sammiebutterss, Natasha Teiman @natasha_teiman, Gabrielle Clemons @gabrielleebiancaa, Cade Ostermeyer @cademeyer_, Cecil Atkins @its._cecil, Malia Corinne Louie @malia.corinneeee