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I first came across Vladimir Nabokov’s Lolita when I was around 12 or 13.


I was a lonely, awkward preteen who felt much older than I was. I had a small amount of friends, and most of my time was spent browsing the web for Percy Jackson fan art or WatchMojo top tens ranking the best of cinema. At some point, deep in the annals of WeHeartIt (rip) I came across a whole subgroup of other weird adolescents. There were moodboards and moodboards dedicated to what was then called “nymphets”, and would later morph into the larger coquette subculture. At that moment, I knew I had finally found my people. 


It took me a minute to get what it meant to be a nymphet. Tumblr and WeHeartIt led me to believe that it was largely a fashion aesthetic, known for its frills and school girl sensibilities. I quickly learned that it was much more than that. The phrase “nymphet” comes from the aforementioned Lolita. The book’s protagonist, pedophile Humbert Humbert, uses the term to describe girls between “...nine and fourteen there occur maidens who, to certain bewitched travelers, twice or many times older than they, reveal their true nature which is not human, but nymphic (that is, demoniac); and these chosen creatures I propose to designate as ‘nymphets’” (Nabokov). The young girls of Tumblr and the like who self identified as nymphets were mature, but youthful. They liked old school cinema and Elvis Presley. Lana Del Rey was their personal hero. Saddle shoes flooded their wish lists. Most importantly however, was their obsession with older men.


I immediately felt a kinship with these girls. I loved classic cinema and old school rock and roll. I felt completely isolated from kids my own age and much preferred the company of adults. I was hopelessly in love with Atticus Finch and aging stars like Robert Redford. That was one of the main draws of the nymphet community to me. I could explore my attraction to older men without feeling embarrassed or weird. I began to scour the internet for more coquette content. I dreamed of curating a closet of Dolores Haze inspired garb. I watched movies like Hick and My Little Princess and felt seen by these wayward girls, even though I lived with a loving family in Northeast Philadelphia. I became obsessed with Lana Del Rey (and still am, for the record). I listened to “Lolita” and “Off to the Races” on full blast during math class. “Put me in a Movie” became my own personal anthem. It was in this space that I had felt free to truly be myself. For the first time, I didn’t feel freakish, because there was an entire world of young girls who loved all the same things I did and felt confident enough to share that love on the internet. So, it became increasingly disheartening to see the community be co-opted and belittled. 


Coquette means something very different now than it did back in the early to mid 2010s. Nowadays, it’s basically a catch-all term for anything girly or traditionally feminine. Everything from bows, to yoga pants, to Sofia Coppola is labeled as coquette. When I was active in the subculture, nymphet and coquette were basically interchangeable, but it was more than an aesthetic. Sure, there were the unifying fashion influences. Gingham, 1940s inspired pieces, ribbons, and heart shaped glasses were seen across the board. But, an appreciation of antiquity, love of old school film and music, and a taste for older men were all crucial in identifying as coquette. Now anything that’s colored pink can be deemed coquettish. The phrase has basically lost all meaning. I’ve seen dark feminine coquette, fairy coquette, grunge coquette, americana coquette (which out of all of these is the closest to what the identity originally described). If you told someone back in 2014 that pink lululemon athletic sets and floral patterned stanley cups would be seen as coquette, you would’ve been accused of blasphemy. 


I mainly blame Tiktok and Instagram for this. Tiktok is where individuality goes to die, so once coquette breached containment circa 2020, everyone and their mom was asking where you could buy coquette clothing at the expense of some poor child working in a sweat shop. Back in my day, most girls who dressed the part of a nymphet recommended thrift stores or vintage shops. 


Over on instagram, the Coquette label was picked up by girl bloggers and femcel types, who are much more interested in the appearance of subculture than they are actually living by the rules of said subculture. Because at the end of the day, coquette and nymphet were terms used to describe subcultures. It was made up of girls who had unifying tastes and interests, and tried to act accordingly. To see it maimed and twisted into this nothing burger aesthetic makes me feel not only old, but sad that my niche group of fellow tweenagers were the last breath of community. 


I understand why most people cringe when they hear the phrase nymphet, and in turn coquette, but for a lot of young girls, this identity was a lifeline. Obviously it wasn’t perfect. There were always racial implications that were dubious at best. Most models who appeared in the coquette and nymphet mood boards were overwhelmingly white. The one good thing about modern coquette is the inclusion of girls of color. However, I feel as someone who was there, most of the critique of nymphet and coquette communities promoting grooming and abuse were unfounded. A lot, and I mean a lot, of the girls who identified as nymphets were abused and/or groomed themselves, and were using the community as a safe space to unpack and understand their trauma. The lyric video for “Put Me in a Movie”, which now sits at 2.3 million views, is overflowing with people praising the song for its depiction of sexual abuse and how the song had helped them process their own abuse. I don’t think every girl who obsessed over Lolita was too stupid and prone to romanticization to see that Humbert Humbert was a bad guy. I know this because I didn’t. In fact, it protected me. I watched the 90s Lolita multiple times in middle school. The film, flawed as it is, showed me firsthand what abuse looks like. It was because of this, that I never fell victim to an older man when I was underage. For most of my tweens, I yearned for a handsome older man to come save me from myself, and after watching the film I realized that adult men who are looking to “save” a young girl are likely predators. I’m glad I watched it. Do I think every girl who saw themselves as a nymphet understood Nabokov’s intentions? No. But I do think teen girls are capable of holding two ideas in their heads at once. I think it’s possible to understand that media can depict evil things and still be comforting to those who need it, for whatever reason. 


Part of me believes that I can return to the safe space I had when I was a tween. That I can nestle myself into that world when I start feeling lonely again. Rationally, I know that the community is long gone. It’s been split into so many contradictions that I think it’s finally time to let go. If you were there, know that I was glad to have your comfort at a time when I felt the rest of the world thought me to be strange. I’m 22 now, and sometimes I still feel like that 12-year-old girl. I try to give her the kindness you all gave me. If nothing else, I’m glad that I got to be a part of something.


Interviewed and Written by Jazzi Almestica and Lucy Anderson


What started as an online thrifting venture by creator and designer Tarnovsky from her LA apartment quickly turned into an internationally loved and admired fashion capsule inspired by the early aughts and the peak of socialites in the spotlight. While Tarnovsky is still working out of her LA apartment, the brand she created, Hoes For Clothes, has grown greatly beyond that. Sasha talks with 47magazine about her experience as a creator, designer, and Gen-Z fashion icon. 





Pictured Above: Sasha Tarnovsky in Hoes For Clothes


47Magazine: You’ve cultivated such a distinctive culture and style with your clothing brand “hoesforclothes.” What was the inspiration behind your brand and its unique name?


Sasha Tarnovsky: Honestly, the name just came to me sporadically. I have had this brand since 2019, and the original name was Grinchy Vintage (like, after the Grinch, haha), and then I rebranded to Cherubs and Cherries when I switched from selling vintage to selling more of my own designs. However, it never really felt right. Then, I remember being in a section for one of my political science classes in school, and it was around the time when the expression being a “hoe for” something was popular, like “I'm a hoe for peanut butter” or something, idk, and the name hoes for clothes came to me. I remember being so excited I could barely pay attention in class because I was like.. “This is so perfect,” but I didn’t know if it was taken already or not, so I sat through the class in agony, waiting to check my phone. Then I swapped it, and the rest was history!


47: Your clothing hits a specific spot for young adults, balancing hotness and humor, setting the trend for Gen-Z culture. Where do you find your inspiration and creativity? 


ST: I get a lot of inspiration from internet culture, memes, tv-shows and stuff like that. I have always really liked the 2000s aesthetic and used to be so obsessed with Jersey Shore and Desperate Housewives growing up. Everything else just kind of comes together! I also get lots of ideas from my followers, which makes it a really fun and collaborative thing. 





47: Starting a business is one thing, but turning it into a flourishing success is another. Did you think your business was gonna reach this level of fame?


ST: Literally never did I imagine something like this would happen! I just started it to sell off some clothing out of my closet originally, and help pay off some of my loans. I actually have a degree in political science. I was originally going to go into law, but then right around when COVID started, the brand kinda took off, so I didn’t accept any law school applications, dove head first into this world, and I haven’t looked back since! But being a fashion designer, or whatever you want to call it, was always my dream.


47: Who is your personal fashion icon?


ST: I don’t really have any celebrity fashion icons (although some movie characters definitely inspire me, like Shelley from The House Bunny, Edie from Desperate Housewives, etc). Still, I do have a few girls online that I would like to shout out for sure, my two favorite fashion girlies to follow are @beanieboylston and @linmick; neither knows I exist, but I have been following them for so many years. I am always inspired by the creative and fun approach they both have to fashion. For Lindsay (@linmick), I don’t necessarily even think our fashion style is remotely similar, but something about her vibe and style is so incredible. 


Beanie Boylston (@beanieboylston)
Beanie Boylston (@beanieboylston)


Lindsay Vrckovnik (@linmick)
Lindsay Vrckovnik (@linmick)

47: What is one item of clothing you couldn’t live without?


ST: This is a basic answer, but either a black mini skirt or a pair of denim cut-off shorts. I think you can style them both in so many different ways, up or down, and they are both constants in my wardrobe. I felt like there was no “perfect” black mini out there, so I designed my own. 



47: What was your “I’ve made it” moment?


ST: I bet you could ask even Christian Dior this question and he would say, “did I really make it?!” or maybe that is just my imposter syndrome talking but I guess if I had to say something, I would say when I was still pretty new to all this and Tana Mongeau wore my “DUMP HIM” hat and had some paparazzi take her photo. To this day, I always think of her so positively regarding this situation because she did not buy the hat, she gently asked me for it, and I gifted it to her, and then when people asked her about where it was from she reposted one of those “Tana Closet” accounts to her story that shared my @. I have never seen her do that before for anyone. It was a gesture she absolutely did not need to do, because influencers like her are paid so much for their tags, but it was so sweet and kind and brought so many new eyes on me. I will always be so grateful for that, and I remember freaking out that THE Tana, who I used to watch on YouTube after school for hours, wore my trucker hat and shouted me out. 


47: What’s one piece of advice you wish you could tell yourself at the beginning of your journey? And what’s something you’d want to tell future you?


ST: I would tell myself to stay true to myself and my style because when you try to be something you’re not, you won’t succeed. The phrase “they can copy the recipe, but the sauce won’t taste the same” is so true. When I try to make items that I think people “want”, they never do well. All my best-performing pieces always came from the heart, and they were items I was personally inspired by. I am so grateful for the community I’ve curated on my social media, and I believe I got there by following my heart and doing whatever the fuck I wanted!



Earlier this year, the famed country singer/musician Morgan Wallen tweeted “Take Me Back to God's Country” after appearing on Saturday Night Live as the musical guest, an often desired and coveted privilege that not all artists experience, in protest of the “woke” atmosphere of New York City. In addition to this trend of metaphorically “going back to God's country,” the general public and youth of America have started to increasingly use and support generative AI like ChatGPT and Google's Gemini. But why is this branding strategy working so well, on, theoretically, the most politically and socially conscious generations thus far? And why are we resisting the desire to be uniquely ourselves once again? My hypothesis is that the fall of individualism is slowly being readmitted to the mainstream by the coinciding factors of a consumer capitalist society that encourages conformity and docility.

 

When men like Morgan Wallen, openly hateful and slur-using men, are not only given the spotlight but showered in it, it’s hard not to be concerned about the future of media. Wallen and others like him contribute to the idea of cisgendered, white, Christian,  and heternormative values that our current administration is already heavily in support of. This standard is not only being reinforced in the top 40 hits, though. A musician who was once held in high esteem by the indie music community is now married to an alligator tour guide from Florida and displaying a liking for more “traditional” values. Lana Del Rey has shifted her aesthetic from a Lolita-esque indie babygirl aesthetic into a tradwife blue collar energy that fans and critics alike are having mixed feelings about. Why Lana made the choice to shift to these ideals, or if she’s always felt that way, is not known, but the general consensus is that this shift, though disappointing, is not surprising. Read more about our team's thoughts here. 




When Generative-AI has bled into not only the mainstream but the education systems and corporate world as well, it’s hard to pretend that I am not deeply concerned for the future of my friends, family, employers, and overall population. The more individuals I talk to or videos I see online, the more my concern grows. Millions of people are constantly feeding generative AI bots that have been proven to disrupt and harm the climate. That’s a lot more disappointing than letting Morgan Wallen take over the Billboard Hot 100 for a while. If you are unfamiliar with the mass usage of gen AI - bless your soul, you lucky bastard - just know that people are using it to write emails, Emails! For their jobs that are 90% emails. It is infuriating to say the least, and if we really get into it is blatantly harmful. What is the point of human communication if we disrupt the basis of communication itself: thought?

 

We, dare I say it, as a nation, are continuing to get dumber. Not just because we listen to okay music made by racists, or spend our money on useless figurines, or even because we use AI to spell check our work, but because we allow these generative machines and people, and leaders to think for us. We as a people cannot improve upon our society or the climate crisis if we are allowing ourselves to get this lazy and sloppy. If we do not actively feed our passions and our motor skills, we will not grow into decent people. We will stay stuck in our selfish bubble of ease and quantity over thoughtfulness and quality. 

So, encourage your people and yourself to use your mind. YOUR mind. YOUR passion. YOUR words. YOUR brain. Do not allow the muscle of your mind to disappear or wither; your brain is the thing that makes us the most ourselves. Do not attempt to douse it in the name of conformity or the tradwife aesthetic.


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